“Auki, Solomon Islands”, 1989

James Brown

“Auki, Solomon Islands”, 1989

Pencil and watercolour on heavy Arches watercolour paper

Size: (sheet) 14.4 x 22.1 cm

This small study of a few local stores in Auki, the capital of Malaita in the Solomon Islands, was created after a visit to the bustling fresh produce markets, where I bought some betel nuts to sample later in the day. I mention this purchase because it perfectly encapsulated my mindset at the time (1989)—a longing to immerse myself in the exotic world around me and to document my experiences.

For those curious about my first—and only—experience with chewing betel nuts, I can confidently say they are not my “thing.” Nonetheless, I was fascinated by the custom of consuming them with a pinch of slaked lime, all wrapped in a betel leaf (which I had purchased separately). The result was a mouth stained blood-red, stark white teeth, and an overall yucky feeling. However, it's important to recognise that this taste test unfolded within a cultural context to which I felt somewhat disconnected.

During my stay, I was warmly welcomed by a local family in one of those iconic palm-frond huts perched on stilts beside a serene lagoon. While I was treated like a cherished friend, I did feel somewhat out of place in terms of my appearance and understanding of local customs. For instance, I was gently advised against wearing my usual red T-shirt, a colour considered inappropriate and possibly even "taboo." I quickly learned that the family’s totem was the shark and that wearing red was deemed disrespectful.

Looking back at my drawing, I realise that the scene is not as devoid of people as I have portrayed it. The street intersection was actually teeming with activity. Also notably missing is a sign advertising ice cream—something that remains vividly etched in my memory as I painted under the scorching midday sun, longing for a cool sweet treat.